Sunday 18 April 2010

Restaurant Review: 21212

I've been wanting to go to 21212 for some months now, and earlier this year it gained it's Michelin star. The concept of a restaurant which offers only a choice of 2 starters, mains and desserts, with 1 soup and cheese in between is, I admit, slightly scary for a somewhat fussy eater like myself. However I had looked at sample menus before, and almost every dish appealed to me.

Atmosphere

The dining room is small and intimate. It reminded me of a 21st century Witchery in style - plush and opulent but at the same time light, modern and airy. Not at all oppressive.

Wine List

The wine list is not particularly extensive, but very well chosen. To start we had 2 glasses of Henriot NV, followed by a bottle of Dry River Syrah 2004 (one of our favourite NZ syrahs, and not that easy to get in the UK).

Food

With a limited choice it's not surprising that we both ate the same meal from start to finish. Each dish had about 10 to 15 ingredients, most of which I have forgotten. Even the bread (saffron with spice) was complex.

To start we had a new zealand lamb curry. This, we agreed, was delicious. Each of the many flavours was perfectly and delicately balanced. The lentil dahl was delicious. Easily the best curry I've eaten and an excellent start to the meal.

Then came the soup. This was a celeriac cream (or froth) with puréed vegetables. Again delicious, but more of an amuse bouche in size rather than a soup.

For the main we chose duck - smoked and breast, with a custard tart and, bizarrely, a spicy sausage. Overall the dish was nice, but a bit disjointed as the flavours didn't all mesh with each other. The sausage in particular seemed at odds with the rest of the dish.

Cheese next: a lovely blue cheese which went particularly well with the sweet biscuits; a soft, brie-like cheese from champagne; a couple of harder cheeses. The array of biscuits that came with the platter was fantastic and ranged from sweet wafer like ones through to thick oatmeal. What surprised me most about this course was the size of it - unlike the soup this was a big serving.

Finally the sweet. But before that a small palate cleansing porridge milk - delicious. We spurned the lemon curd and instead selected apple crumble. Both desserts came in glasses. A tokaji and a sweet shiraz accompanied this course. The crumble was delicious - a layered glass of creamy heaven.

Overall Rating

We retired upstairs for coffee in the drawing room afterwards - a relaxing way to end a great meal. If I had to be picky I would say that the main course didn't live up to the other 4 courses, and the balance of the meal was slightly skewed by the size of the soup and the cheese. Overall though - fantastic restaurant, great service, especially from the sommelier, great atmosphere, and fab company! I'll definitely be going again.

Sunday 14 February 2010

Restaurant Reviews: Italian Lunches & Prosecco

What better way to spend Sunday than to go out for lunch, drink some Prosecco and watch some rugby? Well, Scotland could actually win for a change, but apart from that ...

So a couple of quick reviews! Last week we were at Centotre on George Street, and today back to our old favourite VinCaffé

Centotre

We hadn't eaten at Centrotre since it opened many years ago, but we wanted to treat friends for lunch and thought this would be a good choice before heading off to a pub to watch the rugby.

Drinks first: Prosecco Col del Sas Extra Dry @ £26 per bottle: still too sweet for my taste, but good at lunchtime. Our good intentions vanished quickly as we drank 2 bottles ...

And now the starters: Mozzarella was ordered and came without the promised tomatoes (which were definitely on our menu but do not appear online ...). With no argument, tomatoes were added. The Bresaola was very nice, as was the Bruschetta.

For mains most of us selected the veal. This was good, but we had to ask for lemon, without which the dish would have been bland. Once again the service was great though, and lemon slices were brought from the bar. The sirloin was also good.

Eager to get a seat somewhere for the rugby, we skipped dessert.

Conclusions: the meal was OK, but I was very disappointed not to be offered fresh parmesan - I can't remember the last time that happened in an Italian restaurant. And lemon with the veal would have been nice.

As a quick aside, we ended up in Hudsons bar, which was not only an excellent place to watch the rugby (read: we got a seat and it wasn't that busy!), but they also had a fantastically dry prosecco at £17 a bottle. Unfortunately I can't remember the name, but if you are in the area ...

VinCaffé

We go to VinCaffé for lunch at least once a year, usually at Christmas. We also try and avoid the conveyor belt feel and bland menus often associated with Valentines day meals. So a table was booked, and it was confirmed that nothing at all special was happening at lunchtime - just the usual menu. Perfect!

For starters we had deep fried cauliflower and peppers, and fishcakes, washed down with a glass of Ferrari Prosecco. Both were excellent!

My main course, accompanied with a glass of La Poja Allegrini, was Pasta with pork Lucanica sausage, tomato, mushrooms and cream - seriously good pasta, and complemented perfectly by the wine. My hubby elected to try Quails with polenta and roasted butternut squash, with a glass of Gaja 1999. Incredible wine, and apparently the food wasn't bad either!

Only 1 dessert: a delicious lemon and ricotta cheesecake.

Once again, VinCaffé does not let us down. The food was excellent, compared to the food at Centotre which didn't quite hit the same standards.

And as for the rugby ... it's just a shame the Italians couldn't finish the day off perfectly (we'll not talk about yesterdays result ...)

Saturday 16 January 2010

Scotland's New Michelin Star Restaurants

Yes it's that time of year again - 3 new michelin stars for Scotland:

* Kinloch Lodge, Skye (not been there)
* The Peat Inn, Fife (fantastic food)
* 21212, Edinburgh - this was going to be the next place I eat out anyway. I may have to go sooner than intended now!

Edinburgh also now has more starred restaurants outside London than any other city in the UK. This makes me happy.

For more information see:

* The Scotsman
* EatOut Magazine

Tuesday 5 January 2010

New Zealand Restaurants - A Selection

We've just come back to the snow after 1 month in New Zealand visiting family, walking and, of course, finding the time to fit in a few meals out. A quick review of the few restaurants we managed to get to:
  • Andiamo, Auckland
  • The Botswana Butchery, Wanaka
  • The Bunker, Queenstown
  • Fergburger, Queenstown
  • Salt Bar and Restaurant, Whitianga

Andiamo, Herne Bay, Auckland

On arrival, we wanted to go out for a nice meal - cue some internet research and local knowledge. We had many candidates but Andiamo was one our hosts had never been to, was getting good reviews from friends, and had a good wine list.

The restaurant itself had a busy bar just off the main restaurant area and patio dining for those brave enough (it wasn't yet quite warm enough for us at the start of December).

Starters were good: a couple of feta salads, some scallops and calamari. The mains were hapuka, tuna, lamb and beef. Again all solidly presented. This was washed down with a nice Dry River Riesling. 2 desserts were ordered and 2 came (but not the ones ordered). Result: 2 free chocolate desserts and another 2 sticky toffee puddings. On receipt of the bill, we found we had been charged for 2 bottles of wine not 1, but it all got worked out in the end. Time for a walk home through the Ponsonby drunks, out celebrating Christmas early (just like being at home!).

Verdict? Good enough, but too pricey for what it is; certainly not the best Auckland has to offer, and perhaps trying a bit too hard; waiting staff need to pay more attention to the customers rather than their friends! We weren't disappointed with our meal, but neither were we blown over.

The Botswana Butchery, Post Office Lane, Wanaka

After over 1 week of hard walking in the South Island, we marked our last evening in Wanaka with a meal at The Botswana Butchery. This restaurant, albeit the Queenstown branch, was recommended by family who had visited a few weeks ago, but was already on our list to visit.

Starters consisted of Buttermilk and Herb Prawn Cutlets and French Onion Soup. The cutlets were demolished quickly, but the soup took a bit longer - it was delicious, thick, very filling and with lots of bread! A good start to the meal.

After a suitable interval our main courses arrived: 1 sirloin with Bearnaise, and 1 venison. Both were a very good size, and delicious. The cabbage and bacon side we ordered went well with both, and there was plenty of it. The wine list had plenty of wine available by the glass so we tried a couple of Otago Pinots.

For dessert it was 1 excellent crème brulee (the soup was so filling I was practically full after my starter!).

By now the sun was setting, the few clouds that had been lingering over the mountains had disappeared, and so it was off to see Mount Aspiring at sunset - glorious.

Verdict: great food; attentive service; good atmosphere and wine list; great views! Highly recommended.

The Bunker, Cow Lane, Queenstown

Part of me doesn't want to write this review - if I keep it secret then it might remain something special.

There is a Botswana Butchery in Queenstown, but we had heard tell of something else - a small windowless restaurant which used to be used to tune skis, hidden in Cow Lane below a more easily discovered bar of the same name: The Bunker. Again family had visited a few weeks before and recommended it to us, for which we must be thankful! We phoned ahead and reserved a table, and upon arrival found ourselves in a cosy windowless room with only 6 or 7 tables and a roaring log fire, kept well stoked all night.

Starters were duly ordered, along with a bottle of the stunning, and reasonably priced, Wooing Tree Pinot Noir. I had a terrine of pheasant and duck liver parfait with walnut bread - it melted in the mouth and was delicious. My partner opted for the wild hare - seared loin together with braised hare filo rolls which (apparently ...) were stunning.

For the main course I chose the Beef - easily the best beef I have had for a very long time. My husband went for the lamb - rack and braised shoulder. Again delicious.

Dessert time: 1 dessert of the day (a delicious vanilla panacotta) and a trio of chocolate, including a mouth watering pistachio brownie. These were accompanied by glasses of Cloudy Bay late harvest Riesling and 20 year old tawny port respectively.


Throughout the night the service we received was exemplary, and we were allowed plenty of time between courses to relax - the restaurant almost demands that you relax as soon as you walk through the door. In terms of overall atmosphere this rivals anywhere I've ever been - add to that top quality food and a fantastic wine list and you have the ingredients for the perfect night out. So good we stayed at our table for an after dinner drink - we didn't want the evening to end. If you're in Queenstown book a table. This was the best meal we have had in a long time!

Fergburger, Shotover Street, Queenstown

Now strictly speaking this isn't a restaurant, but it does have tables - in fact it can probably seat more diners than The Bunker, although perhaps not in quite the same comfort! But no visit to Queenstown can be complete without a visit to Fergburger.

The last time we ate there they had just moved from Cow Lane. Doing some research before we returned we were amazed to see the advertising - they are a true phenomenon! So what do you get? Fantastic quality burgers, good chips and drinks, including beer if you require it. We grabbed a takeaway consisting of a couple of 1/2lb burgers (we'd just finished a very tough walk!) but on offer are other delicacies such as the tofu 'Holier than thou' burger! This is the nest place in NZ to eat a burger - make sure you don't miss out and remember ... "Ferg Loves You".

Salt Bar and Restaurant, Whitianga

Our final meal out was at Salt. We'd dined here before so had high hopes which weren't quite met.

I started with the chicken liver pate, served with relish and cornishons (gherkins). I wasn't convinced by the gherkins, but they worked very well! A filling starter again for me though! The gravadlax was also appreciated. Then, eventually, came the main course. We had the misfortune of being served behind a large table of 12 or 14 - and it showed. Not only did we have to wait over half an hour for the main course, but when the lamb and the fillet arrived they were overcooked: the beef was medium rather than medium rare, and the lamb hadn't been pink for a while! The salsa verde served with the lamb was overpowering, as was the imam bayildi. Not the best choice. The beef was good, notwithstanding the overcooking.

For dessert there was a crème brulee again - good but not great and, bizarrely, served with rhubarb (which didn't work).

Verdict: not a great meal for us but I'd be prepared to give them another chance if we ever go to the Coromandel again. And there doesn't appear to be a huge choice of fine dining in Whiti. The last time was far better.